How not to train for rock climbing

“], “filter”: { “nextExceptions”: “img, blockquote, div”, “nextContainsExceptions”: “img, blockquote”} }”>

Get full access to Outside Learn, our online education hub featuring in-depth fitness, nutrition and adventure lessons and over 2,000 instructional videos when you sign up for Outside+ >”,”name”:”in -content-cta”,”type”:”link”}}”>Join Outside+ today.

Forearms so vascular they attract sharks. Back muscles so ripped you could map them topographically. Fingers so strong they could crush stone like wet spaghetti. In my seven years as a mountaineer, I have achieved none of these things. Follow my five simple, experience-based tips below, and I promise you that in just six weeks, you won’t be a better climber than you are today, and possibly worse.

1. Buy books

Sure, you can follow a simple resistance training program for reliable gains like 99% of athletes do in other sports, but you’re a climber. That’s not how we do it. Some experts would suggest that you read a rock climbing training book and then design a plan based on that book. I’m here to tell you that you can get the same satisfaction with none of the results by simply buying books.

by Eric Horst training for rock climbing is an excellent starting point. Until that happens, listen to the Training Beta podcast. Hear the Anderson brothers explain their research-driven approach. Take training for rock climbing out of the Amazon box and place it directly on the shelf. Order The Climber’s Training Manual. Ah, better: it’s clearly the only training book you’ll ever need. Although this Steve Bechtel guy has some interesting ideas. Hmm, OK: Anderson bros out, Bechtel’s Strength: Basic training for rock climbing in. Or maybe Training for New Mountaineering is what you need. Or How to climb 5.12. Or The self-taught climber.

I’ll let you in on a secret: it doesn’t matter what books you buy, as long as you don’t read them.

2. Change Programs Frequently

Having not read all the latest training knowledge, now is the time to come up with a plan based on what is likely in those books. Rows of dumbbells. Boards. Hangboard repeaters at 9 seconds on, 2.27 seconds off. Go with enthusiasm for a week, then start doubting yourself. You’ve done two planks and you’re still slipping pitchers. There are probably better exercises. Restart. Squats. Deadlifts. Maximum weight deadhangs. Hit the iron hard until you read an internet forum where a group of teenagers agree that rock climbing is the best way to practice rock climbing. Dumbbells outside. Bouldering 4×4 in. Waffle early and often. The trick to not working out is to never stick with an exercise long enough for your body to adapt.

[Also Try Not Following this 6-weeks to Stronger Fingers Course, by Jonathan Siegrist]

3. Join a high-intensity training program*

It turns out that designing and executing a training plan is tough. And boring. It’s easier to pay someone to tell you what to do. You’ve made fun of high-intensity training in the past, but people like it, even some normal people, even if their pull-ups are suspect. Hey, might as well give it a shot.

Holy shit, this is hard!

You’ll have to skip rock climbing tonight, but your new regimen will get you back into shape quickly. You should probably skip the rock climbing tomorrow too. You will be in pain. And then it will be time to train again. Lose interest in climbing and do whatever you can. Set a record for flipping a truck tire the most times before throwing up a projectile. Celebrate with burpees and a trip to the ER for rhabdomyolysis-induced kidney failure.

*You can achieve similar results by running ultramarathons.

4. Hurt yourself

It’s good that you’re back in the climbing hall – you got a bit derailed there. To make up for lost time, go for the hangboard. One session a day, never days off. By the end of the first week, your ring finger will become sore, stiff, and tender to the touch. These are warning signs. Ignore them. Keep hangboarding until your A2 pulley explodes like a gunshot, prompting everyone in the gym to take cover. Permanently damaged finger, spend the next two years doing nothing for fear of getting hurt again if you go near a rock.

5. Repeat

If you followed the steps above correctly, you shouldn’t be in better shape than ever. you should be weaker, poorer and older. Repeat the routine for as long as you want to be stuck at 5.10, which you might as well, since climbing above that rating is impossible. Trust me. I tried everything but commit and stick to a workout plan.

Read also :

Add Comment

%d bloggers like this: